Weight loss is intermittent, anti-aging is eternal. At present, there are three main components of anti-aging: Retinol(Vitamin A), Pro-xylane, Polypeptides, today we will introduce the anti-aging three major ingredients - Polypeptides.
What is a polypeptide
"Peptide" is actually not mysterious at all, because it can also be called - small molecule protein.
A peptide is a compound of α-amino acids that is formed by the linkage of peptide bonds to -, and it is also an intermediate product of protein hydrolysis. The compound formed by dehydration and condensation of two amino acid molecules is called dipeptide, and so on, tripeptide, tetrapeptide, pentapeptide... A peptide consisting of three or more amino acid molecules is called a polypeptid. The diagram below is a schematic of a polypeptide chain (each ball represents an amino acid). When the polypeptide chain is very long, it will interact and fold to form a three-dimensional structure, which is a protein (the protein on the right below).
To put it bluntly, a peptide is a more "short" protein, and a protein is a more "long" peptide. A protein is like a long chain of amino acids -- if there are enough of them, it is a protein; If there is less, it is a polypeptide; If it is as little as a few amino acids, it is an "oligopeptide".
Peptide, its name is very confusing. Strictly speaking, peptide is not a substance, but a general term for a part of polypeptides and oligopeptides, which is essentially a condensation of 2-20 amino acids, and X amino acids are composed of X peptides. The length of the peptide chain and the number of peptide bonds determine the effect on human tissues.
The importance of peptides
Peptides can act on the three major elements of the skin: glycosaminoglycans, elastin, collagen, and improve the overall skin condition. Moreover, it can directly solve the problem of collagen synthesis and loss, and comprehensively improve the collagen content. Whether it is short-term smoothing of fine lines or long-term tightening of the skin, peptides can play a bright anti-aging effect.
Peptides promote the proliferation of collagen, elastic fibers and hyaluronic acid, increase the skin's water content, increase skin thickness and reduce fine lines. Different peptides are added to skin care products, and the corresponding function and effect are very different, just like different pearl combinations, the effect of matching is very different. Instead of analyzing the specific principles, let's look directly at the simplified results. Among various peptides, dipeptides, tripeptides, pentapeptides, and hexapeptides are most commonly found in major cosmetics.
The role and classification of cosmetic peptides
1, the role of peptides
The effect of peptides on anti-aging is mainly to play an all-round role in the production of collagen, and collagen is the core structure of anti-aging. And the combination of peptides and other effective ingredients can increase its ability to penetrate the skin and maximize its anti-aging effect.
Cosmetic peptides play a unique and important physiological role in the defense and care of skin's natural aging. Such as skin tissue cell proliferation, cell chemotaxis and migration, repair and regeneration, angiogenesis and reconstruction, pigment formation and clearance, protein synthesis and secretion, metabolism and regulation. According to the function of peptide, brand merchants have developed products with selling points such as anti-aging, whitening and freckle removal, breast enhancement, slimming, hair growth promotion and wound repair.
2. Classification of peptides
Most of the peptides used in skin care products are small molecule peptides (cosmetic peptides) between dipeptides and decapeptides, because small molecule peptides have the characteristics of high activity and easy absorption by the skin, and have special physiological activity, which can essentially improve a series of skin problems. Peptides play an important role in the growth, development and metabolism of organisms, and also play a key regulatory role in the process of natural skin aging and care. Therefore, more and more research has been done on cosmetic peptides, and naturally there are many kinds of ingredients.
Cosmetic peptides can be roughly divided into three categories according to the mechanism:
I Signal peptides
Signal peptides are messenger carriers that transmit signals, and the most critical role of these peptides in skin care is to achieve effective communication between skin cells. When the skin is aging and there is no way to reproduce to promote youthful state, signal peptides use the activity of the extracellular matrix to inform the aging cells, and at the same time send a "distress signal" to the fiber cells to stimulate the synthesis of more collagen, so that the skin can maintain a full state, making the skin look more elastic and young. Here's an analogy:
① Signal peptide sends instructions to the cell to convey the signal "enemy invasion, request support".
(2) Cell mobilization: extracellular matrix proteins, including collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, glycosaminoglycan and so on, gather reinforcements.
③ Heat suppression reduces the activity of collagenase, which breaks down collagen.
④ Cooperate successfully, defeat aging!
The main effect of this peptide is to promote collagen synthesis
Representative ingredients: palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, palmitoyl tripeptide 1, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide-5. Pentapeptide-4
They are similar to traditional anti-wrinkle raw materials, such as vitamin C and vitamin A derivatives, but the ability to promote collagen production is far better than vitamin C and vitamin A
Anti-aging trio - Polypeptides
II Neurotransmitter inhibiting peptides
The botulin-like mechanism can inhibit the synthesis of SNARE receptors, inhibit the excessive release of catecholamines and acetylcholine in skin, locally block the nerve transmitting muscle contraction information, relax facial muscles, and achieve the purpose of smoothing fine lines. It is a peptide that mimics the principle of botox in wrinkle removal, interferes with nerve endings, releases acetylcholine to control muscles, and helps improve dynamic wrinkles, which can reduce expression lines by about 30%.
To put it bluntly, these peptides are like signal disruptors, mainly by interfering with the formation of protein complexes, affecting the release of neurotransmitters, to reduce muscle contraction and thus improve expression patterns.
The main effect of this peptide is to smooth fine lines
Representative peptides: acetyl hexapeptide-8, SYN-AKE (snake venom peptide)
These peptides are as widely used as signal peptides and are particularly suitable for use in areas where the expression muscles are concentrated (the corners of the eyes, the face and the forehead).
III Carried peptides
Mainly responsible for the work of the transport wheel, the skin needs the metal trace elements, transported to the required place, to play the anti-aging function of the skin, increase collagen and elastin, so as to tighten the skin, fade wrinkles. They act like freight cars, transporting some metal ions. These metal ions are important for both anti-aging and anti-oxidation.
For example, tripeptides in human plasma have a strong affinity with bivalent copper ions and can spontaneously form complex copper peptides. It can promote the growth, division and differentiation of nerve cells and immune-related cells.
The main effect of bearing peptides: anti-aging, promoting wound healing and hair growth
Representative peptide: blue copper peptide
In addition to the above classification of cosmetic peptides, the functions of other peptides are mostly anti-wrinkle and anti-aging.
Efficacy of carnosine in skin care products
1. Balanced distribution of nutrients.
2. Maintain normal skin metabolism.
3, fill the skin, affect the skin texture and shape.
4, accelerate the discharge of skin metabolites.
5. Maintain even skin tone.
6. Purify skin and maintain normal internal circulation of skin.
7, improve the skin's own resistance and self-healing ability.
What are the advantages of anti-aging peptides?
Different peptides have different roles, and a combination of peptides can work synergistically to achieve multiple anti-wrinkle effects, and the effect time of peptides is faster than that of a single peptide.
Compared with Pro-xylane and Retinol, peptides are considered to be more effective and milder ingredients, and have almost no requirements for skin tolerance.
A high concentration of Pro-xylane has a certain effect, and generally Pro-xylane products take a long time to work.
Anti-aging Retinol, the effect is good, weak in irritation, not any skin can be used.
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